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How to Grow RhubarbA guide to growing Rhubarb in gardens, allotments and containers
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Growing Rhubarb - DetailsSee also:- Fruit Growing Glossary | Tree Forms | Container Growing | Buying Plants
Although Rhubarb is classified as a vegetable, we have placed it in the fruit section as this is the way it is most often used
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| Aftercare | Keep moist in summer and as dry as possible in winter.
Mulch with a 5cm/2" layer of well rotted manure or compost in
the Autumn or spring. Remove any flower stalks but
cutting them down as low as possible |
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| Harvesting | Harvesting starts taking place from late
March onwards usually cropping 3-4 times throughout the
summer. It is recommended that only a couple of stalks are harvested
the 1st year after planting to ensure the crown has a chance to
build up it's vigour. When harvesting, wait for the leaves
to fully open before harvesting individual stalks, then pull the stalks rather
than cutting them. Always leave 3 or 4 stalks on the plant at
any one time to carry on growing. Never eat the leaves as these are
poisonous. Forcing Rhubarb - this is done to get earlier, more tender stems. As soon as plants begin to show signs of growth, cover with a large container or box to exclude any light getting to the plant . It should be ready for eating in about four weeks, about 4 weeks earlier than un-forced rhubarb. Once harvested, do not pick any more rhubarb from the forced plants and leave them to build up reserves for next year. |
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| Propagation | This is done by digging up the whole root ball and divide it into 3 or 4 pieces. Each piece is then re-planted as above. This should be done during the plants dormant period - usually between October and February. It is recommended that rhubarb plants be divided every 5 or 6 years to avoid the plants becoming over crowded - sooner if the plant starts to produce thin or weak stems. |
| Pests | Diseases |
| None | Crown Rot
- the crown rots and falls off easily. No cure. Lift and burn diseased
plants. |
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